CAIS
The Circle of Ancient Iranian Studies
[ Home ]
[ About CAIS ]
[ Articles ]
[ Daily News ]
[ News Archive ]
[ Announcements ]
[ CAIS Seminars ]
[ Image Library ]
[ Copyright ]
[ Disclaimer ]
[ Submission ]
[ Search ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Links ]
A
Research on Ancient Iranian Dress
"Hat"
By: Masood Partovi
Hat which was
popularly used in ancient Iran represented the profession, race, social rank of
the person, an ornament or a device for people's comfort. Of different types of
hats or caps one may refer to the crown, including closed, open or integrated
crowns, which were worn by kings, diadem or Deihim, Basak, the straight cap,
Dastar (turban-like cap), Bashlogh (hood), and egg-like felt caps. The felt cap
was popular among Iranian tribesmen. Also ladies used to wear a sort of
headscarf which reached to their ankles covered by a diadem or Basak.
Among other symbols in ancient times a hat or cap had special significance for
the ancient Iranian people. The use of cap dates back to cavemen, and that cap
or hat was developed, modified and perfected with the growth of human
civilizations according to geographical and social conditions. The rank of a cap
over the head or the throne of command or leader of the body, enjoyed special
rank in the ancient Iranian culture because our folklore culture has many
proverbs referring to the cap and its dignity.
REASONS FOR
USING THE CAP
A study of the incentives that led to the use of cap specially in ancient times,
will lead us to the following facts. Hat used as an ornament: This sort of use impelled man in ancient times to use
the cap to beautify the body and to satisfy his aesthetic cravings and religious
beliefs. Hat used for
comfort: Such hats were used by people to meet daily needs (to avoid cold).
Religious uses: The
hat was used in keeping with the special religious rites and ceremonies. Among
such uses the wedding dress and head cover is a striking example. To distinguish rank:
In the past different hats were used to distinguish different classes in the
community or different tribes. Of course different hats and head covers were
fabricated by different cultures, tribes and nationalities in a long period of
time.
To distinguish
profession: Each profession calls for a special sort of cap or dress or uniform
to provide for the worker's safety and ease during the work and various types of
head covers are made according to specific needs.
DECORATION
OF HATS
Hats were decorated in two ways in the past: Interior decoration or decoration
of the web and exterior decoration. By interior decoration we mean the texture
or material that formed the hat including the fabric, the color, shape and main
designs, which were not added to the cap from outside. Exterior decoration are
ornaments which were added to the hat such as beads sewn on the cap separate
from the inside web. Exterior decorations consisted of metals, jewels, glass and
enamels and costly decorative fabrics.
DECORATIVE
IMAGES ON HATS
Since ancient Iran was a vast country and incorporated many nations, in this
article we will only examine the genuine Iranian tribes such as the Medians and
Persians. The ancient Medians
or Persians resorted to simple decorations as symbolic images. A careful
examination of such images leads us to divide them into human, plant, animal,
geometrical images, Varjavand or a mixture of such elements.
The ancient world was a mysterious world of celestial and terrestrial wonders mixed with human fear and hopes and the ancient man has mummified himself in various shapes to achieve everlasting life. Ancient images were symbolic in nature and represented government rank, religion, ritual, gild, or even tribal features including bravery. To clarify the matter further, we will refer to several ornaments which were used on hats.
Water Lily
(Nilufar):
Water lily is an eternal and sacred flower and represents Mehr (the sun) and
Mithra worship. As a result the flower and the stalk of the water lily was used
amply to decorate bowls, walls, and garments. One example of use of water lily
was the employment of the simple lily with its petals in a circle or hoop which
itself was adorned by the lily petals. Such round images have been used amply in
Iranian fabrics during the Parthian, Sasanid and even Islamic periods.
Image of Sun: The
sun (Mehr) enjoyed special symbolic significance in ancient Iranian religious
rites. An example of use of sun is its round disk with 8 rays divided into three
directions all of which were placed in a hoop. One most famous symbol of sun
worship was the sun chariot which in recent years has been modified into broken
cross (swastika). The importance of the sun (Mehr) in religious rites was such
that many experts consider the crown (and even the wedding ring) as a symbol of
ancient religious worship.
Serrated (toothed)
towers: Serrated towers were other symbols used in the ancient times, and such
designs represented ancient temples. An example of serrated tower is shown in
the mosaic bas-relief Khozi soldiers' dress in the Louver Museum. In these
images one can see quadrangle images. Inside the quadrangle one can see three
serrated towers rising from a mound. These three towers represent Varjavand or
combination of Ahuramazda (Zoroastrian) Mithra and Anahitian religions.
Geometric shapes
included hood or round checkered additions which were either applied at the
margin or at the background and they were used to adorn ritual hats. But in the
decoration of hats in ancient Iran one cannot see human or animal images.
TYPES OF
HATS
An examination of images of bas-reliefs in ancient buildings and objects leads
us to divide Median- Persian hats into crowns, diadems (Deihims), Basaks,
straight caps, Dastars, Bashloghs and felt egg-like caps.
CROWN
Crown was a special head cover used by governors. The crown represented special
power bestowed to the king from heaven and each part of its ornaments symbolized
the beliefs and religions of the time. The majority of crowns were serrated and
the serrations were in the curves and bents symbolized towers, battlements or
perhaps Mehr (the sun). The crown was so respectable that the court would hardly
thrust its upkeep to everyone.
The crown was divided into three groups: closed, open and integrated crowns.
The closed crown (a crown covered at the top) was composed of a headstall and an
arch and its edge and sides were decorated by gold. The closed crowns were
either wholly made of metal or non-metal material. In non-metal crowns the
framework was made by non-metal matter and a metal part was mounted on it. The
metal crowned were either fabricated by casting or by engraving the metal.
The images in crown had ritual aesthetic value. Open crowns:
These crowns which were not covered at the head were made of
cylindrical metal bars in different sizes and shapes. The majority of diadems
were made thus. Integrated crowns:
These crowns were open crowns mounted and fastened by two clasps at four corns
to the frame.
Sivaris was one type of crown which was used during the Achaemenid period. This was a tall and serrated golden crown decorated by gold leaves and colorful jewels. The Achaemenid crowns were either closed or open crowns and were excessively worn by kings. The king's crown was taller than other crowns and its walls symbolized the temples of the time and were equipped with 22 or 24 dents. They represented the Ahurayhi or sun power vested to the king.
DIADEM (DEIHIM)
The Deihim or diadem was a golden ring with 4 to 5 cm height which were either
serrated or were smooth. As the design implies the serrated diadem was exclusively worn by kings to
conduct daily business. But the non-serrated diadems were worn by princes,
courtiers or military commanders. A sheared non-serrated diadem has been
discovered in Persepolis which does not resemble the other bas-reliefs there.
BASAK
Basak is a circular ring made of flowers and branches or metal ring made of
flowers. Basak might be considered as a special sort of special diadem. So far the real application of Basak has not been discovered, but in the past
there was a sort of Basak which looked like a rope from distance. Such Basaks
were mostly used by military officers. Many bas-reliefs of soldiers in
Persepolis wear the Basak.
Basak was either made of metal or felt. The non-metal felt Basak was worn during
hunting and war to prevent the hair from being disturbed. The Basak was worn by
the king, his courtiers, military officers and even ordinary people.
STRAIGHT CAP
This was an inverted cone cut at the base and made of felt and scented by gums
and other fragrant material. These were either split or simple caps. The simple straight cap was used as
replacement for the crown for daily affairs by kings.
The difference between split and simple straight cap was in the shears on the
body of the cap. Apparently the split sheared caps were worn by soldiers. What is particular about this cap is the image of Ahura imprinted on it. A
comparison of the straight caps known as Parsi caps with those worn by the
Assyrians shows that the Achaemenid straight cap was a modified version of the
Assyrian one.
DASTAR
(TURBAN-LIKE CAP)
The real purpose of Dastar is not known. This was a pointed felt cap or hood or
shawl which was wrapped over the head and neck or a sort of felt cap. Its true
rank is not known because the Dastar was worn by servants and maids. Right now
in many places including Kurdestan the natives wear a sort of cap on which the
Dastar is wrapped.
BASHLOGH
(HOOD)
This is a felt cap which has special strings hanging behind the ear and back
which narrows as it descends lower. Behind the arch of the Bashlogh there was an
additional piece which was folded in the front. Bashlogh was worn by Median
armor wearing officers. Right now the Bashlogh with slight modifications is
being woven in Kurdestan.
EGG-LIKE
FELT CAP
This cap was known as Median cap. The only ornament on the egg-like felt cap is
a lace at the edge of the cap. The images surviving in Ghalayechi Hill in Bukan
from Manayian period as well as crowns from the Sasanid period has revealed
that a diadem was worn on the felt cap. The felt cap was worn by Achaemenid
warriors and Median officers. A similar cap is still being worn by Iranian
nomadic tribesmen.
DASTAR
(HEAD-SCARF)
This is a sort of headscarf worn by women which reaches as far as the ankles.
The Dastar was worn by Achamenian women. The corners of this shawl-like Dastar
was not wrapped under the neck. The Dastar was placed on the lady's head in a
manner that covered all her hair or it was hung like a tail at the back. The
Dastar was generally worn with a diadem or Basak and was the scarf popularly
used by the Iranian women in the past.
|
|
|
"History is the Light on the Path to Future" |
|
Encyclopaedia Iranica
The British Institute of Persian Studies "Persepolis Reconstructed"
The British Museum
The Royal Asiatic Society
|
